| Just
beyond the Arabella Sheraton Hotel, on the opposite side of the lagoon,
lies Fisherhaven, the westernmost part of Greater Hermanus. This
quiet little place has one shop and many holiday homes. Originally a holiday
resort, Fisherhaven is now home to many locals who prefer the peace of
the hamlet to the quiet bustle of Hermanus. Situated on the lagoon it offers
fishing, sailing and boating facilities.
Hawston
nestles in a cove at Mudge Point. It is one of the oldest settlements in
Greater Hermanus and was designated a “coloured” area by the former government.
Hawston has some of the best sea views in the area and has many building
of historical interest. Hawston has a long stretch of beach that reaches
towards Kleinmond but swimming can be dangerous. The eastern side of the
beach, near Hawston Harbour, is a popular surfing spot. Tours of Hawston
can be arranged through the Hermanus Tourism Bureau.
Vermont
and Onrus River are situated on the coast where the Onrus River
runs into the sea through the lagoon. Though the Onrus River, which rises
in the Babilonstoring mountains, is little more than 10 km long it was
regarded by the Dutch settlers who first saw it as restless. They named
it Onrust, the spelling of which has been modernised to Onrus in spite
of opposition from traditionalists. Particularly vocal defence of the ‘T’
came from a group of distinguished artists who have homes at Onrus and
the adjacent resort of Vermont. The colony of artists settled here has
included Uys Krige, Jan Rabie, Jack Cope, Elsa Joubert, Bill Davis, Gregoire
Boonzaaier, Marjorie Wallace and Cecil Higgs.
Vermont
and Onrus consist mainly of holiday homes and their owners arrive in droves
during the holidays to bathe on Onrus Beach. The lagoon is at present at
the centre of a contentious debate regarding the ecoli levels of the water.
Showers, cloakrooms and a restaurant right on the beach make this a very
friendly beach for holidaymakers; it is also a favourite surfing and body
boarding spot. The Habonim Holiday Camp borders on the beach preserving
the green belt behind the beach from development. Brekvis Bay at Vermont
lies on the boundary of the Vermont Nature Reserve and is one of the most
undisturbed beaches in the area. Shielded by high dunes, Brekvis Bay is
the perfect place to picnic and paddle.
Sandbaai
lies on the coast at the entrance to the Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven and Earth)
Valley. It is the most recently developed residential area of Greater Hermanus.
Most of the roads are gravel roads lined with an eclectic range of homes.
There is a pretty even mix of holiday homes and permanent residences with
permanent residents being, in the main, families with young children. The
Sandbaai beach provides safe swimming at low tide and is dotted with rock
pools and coves. It is a popular snorkeling spot and there are cloakrooms
and showers. Sandbaai has a few art galleries, one specialising in aviation.
It also offers a recently opened seafood restaurant that already has an
excellent reputation.
The
Hemel-en-Aarde
Village is situated behind Sandbaai and has a variety of shops - farm stalls
with delectable homemade items, restaurants, ceramic studios, galleries,
jewellers, wineries, nurseries and more. It is the first stop on the Hermanus
Wine Wander up the serene Hemel-en-Aarde Valley. This valley, heaven and
earth, between the Babilonstoring Mountains and the Kleinriviersberg were
not always the propitious place it is today. In 1817 Moravian missionaries
established South Africa’s first leper colony in the valley. It was also
the country’s first specialised public health institution and operated
until 1845 when all the lepers were sent to Robben Island. The valley truly
is the epitome of its name making the Hermanus Wine Wander an extremely
pleasurable experience.
Zwelihle,
designated a ”black” area by the former government, is a residential area
that consists of shacks in the main. Slowly, proper housing is being built
to accommodate the residents and residents are empowering themselves by
starting their own small businesses. Zwelihle even has its first B &
B and tours of the “township” can be arranged through the Hermanus Tourism
Bureau.
Mount
Pleasant, another area formerly classified ”coloured”, lies at the
western entrance to Hermanus. It is the smallest subsection of Hermanus
and has recently been infused with colour by Operation Preen, a community
collaboration to clean and paint the houses in the area.
The
town of Hermanus “proper” sits on the western cove of Walker Bay
between magnificent sea cliffs and the Olifantsberg. Hermanus Pieters,
an itinerant teacher of Caledon farmers’ children, was the first permanent
resident in the early 1800s. Having come across a fresh spring and greener
pastures he settled on the shore of this enchanting bay. The news of good
summer grazing spread to the surrounding areas and soon farmers from neighbouring
districts would come in the summer months, bringing their livestock to
benefit from the fresh grazing and carting their families along to enjoy
the sea. The spring came to be known as Hermanuspietersfontein but was
shortened to Hermanus when municipal status was given to the town in 1904.
The bay was named after a Royal Naval officer called Walker. The farmers
may have discovered Hermanus, but it was the fishermen who settled here.
With an abundance of fish, the village attracted more and more families.
By the early 1900s word of the excellent fishing, outstanding beauty and
“healing” air had spread across the world. It even became fashionable for
Harley Street doctors in London to prescribe visits to Hermanus’ “champagne
air” to their patients.
Hermanus
was, and is, an excellent holiday venue. One of the first regular visitors
to Hermanus was Sir William Hoy, general manager of the South African Railways.
He was so taken by the tranquillity of the village that he saw to it that
the Bot River railway line never reached Hermanus. His legacy lives on
in the Hermanus Station that has no lines or trains and the hill that lies
in the middle of the village, Hoy’s Koppie, where he and his wife are buried.
Hoy’s Koppie not only provides an easy walk though fynbos to a lookout
point over the village, but is also an important link to the earliest inhabitants
of the area, the Khoisan. Klipgat Cave, a large overhang on the southern
side of the koppie, has archaeological evidence of these indigenous people
inhabiting the cave long before Hermanus Pieters came across it.
Hotels
were quickly built to accommodate the demand for holiday lodgings. The
first hotel was the Victoria Astoria Hotel, now Astoria Village; followed
by the Sanatorium (now the Windsor) and then the Marine Hotel which was
built in 1902. The growing village soon needed the infrastructure required
by a burgeoning and stable community - churches were built, a school, magistrate’s
courts, a new post office, police station, and even a new harbour. Tourism
is still the cornerstone of Hermanus’ economy, but today visitors have
a selection of venues to choose from. In addition to the hotels there are
many guesthouses, self-catering cottages and backpackers’ lodges offering
visitors excellent hospitality.
The
easternmost part of Hermanus, at the foot of the Kleinriviersberg, which
stretches to Stanford, is the residential area of Voëlklip. This is
where beaches are dotted in coves along the shoreline culminating in the
long Grotto beach, which stretches out to meet the magnificent lagoon at
the mouth of the Klein Rivier. On the opposite bank lies of the lagoon
lies Die Plaat, part of the Walker Bay Nature Reserve, 12 km of unspoilt
beach that goes all the way to De Kelders.
Hermanus,
also known as the Riviera of the South, is attractive to travellers not
only because of its wondrous setting, but also because it offers a myriad
of activities all year round. The sun and pristine beaches in summer and
land-based whale watching in the green months; fishing, diving, hiking,
cycling, fly-fishing, boating, bird-watching, paragliding, golf, bowls,
riding…there is always something to do. |